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2021-8-8 20:43

A Walk in Xi‘an



With a stomach-wrenching jolt, the plane literally dropped from cloud cover and made a turn that would have let your stomach churn for ages. Golden sunlight streamed from the window hole as the landscape below us grew more and more distinct.


The first impression of Xi'an on me was not so hot as I expected as we arose slowly on the escalator towards ground level. Away from the coolness of the metro station and coaches. The heat, not desolating, still made a significant impact on me. Sweat dripped from my forehead as we shuffled slowly towards the hotel, which seemed one thousand kilometers away.


The sun was unleashing its energy fully by the time our stomachs started grumbling. We wandered around, looking for a suitable restaurant to have lunch. Finally, we chose an old-fashioned restaurant to have a few dishes and some bottles of drinks.



In the afternoon, we visited some fascinating tomb paintings dating back to the Tang dynasty. I was shocked by four images entitled to be a set from Prince Lishou's tomb. These images show the four mystical creatures guarding the four sides of the earth, the giant turtle of the north, the red bird of the south, the white tiger of the west, and the dragon of the east. How amazing!

下午我们启程前往陕西历史博物馆,开启我们西安之行的第一站——欣赏珍贵的唐代壁画。我被从唐太子李寿墓中出土的一组壁画给深深震撼住了。这组壁画一共四幅,分别雕画出了中古古代镇守四象的四大神兽: 东为青龙,西是白虎,北为玄武,南是朱雀。真的是精妙绝伦!

In the Shaanxi History Museum, it felt like walking through a tunnel of time. From the head bones of pre-historic people to the terracotta army (only part of them), I thought I was riding on enormous waves, viewing history replayed in front of my eyes. Livelier than movies, it was a great joy to see their stories taken out of the shadow of time. I was walking in a dazed, dream-like state, so that I didn’t notice the pain in my legs.


It was a pleasant morning the next day. The sun hung high in the sky, sending light and heat onto the world below. I was on my way to see the stone walls rebuilt in the Ming dynasty. There is a drawbridge above the moat, with a ditch two meters deep. The arrow tower stands high amongst the nearby buildings into the outer wall of Yongning Gate (the south gate of Ming City Wall). The arrow tower and the wall at the other sides make a small confined rectangular space to raid the enemy attacking from the moat.


To prevent being burnt easily, the wooden doors of the arrow tower have a layer of mud over them. To keep the mud layers from peeling off, particular nails have been driven on the doors.


Near the Yongning Gate lies the famed Beilin Museum. Beilin means "forest of steles" in Chinese. Beilin treasures about 2700 steles, of which 1000 of them are in exhibit. The collection has the original work of various calligraphers, including Yan Zhenqing's Duo Bao Ta Bei. It is an excellent place, but the unexpected trouble there was mosquitos.


As I touched the smooth markings edged onto steles by skilled artisans, I questioned:" Why do some steles have turtles under them? "This kind of "turtle" was the sixth son of the dragon, named Baxia, as the myths of our country said. To have Baxia carrying your stele artwork was great glory.


In a lonely corner of the museum, there is a whole exhibit dedicated to vivid steles of buddhas. Although the sculptures are fractured and old, I would still gaze upon the handiwork of sculptors centuries ago. What made me genuinely flabbergasted was some delicate pieces of stone. These stone pieces are like doors that lead to the buddha world, where hundreds of thousands of Buddhas live in harmony.


In the center of the rectangle made by the 13.7-kilometer city wall, soars the landmark bell tower. The Bell Tower, built in 1384, has been the best preserved in our country. It was designed for Ming Tai Zu's wish to change the capital city to Xi'an. Later, it has been a major site of revolution in the Twentieth Century. Gazing at the majesty of this most graceful building, I had the impression of a swan gliding towards the unknown that dominates the mysteries of the lands afar. Everything around has gone through uncountable changes from the glorious dynasty to the dark warring years. This pride of architecture has witnessed them all. Again and again, history has sounded his wailing call, the waves of time splashing on the beach that is humankind and humanity.


The weather broadcasts said that it would be raining on the third day I've been in Xi'an. A mysterious gray enveloped everything, giving the mountains the Terracotta Warriors resided a slight sense of unease. The steep slope seemed to be endless and bring us an infinite daydream.


Following the summon of the Terracotta Army, we flew to Xi'an to pursue the national strength and prestige of the Qin dynasty. And now,with a whoosh of joy, I sighted the sprawling complex at the top.


So far, four grave pits have been excavated, but only three have soldiers in them; Qin Shi Huang had been dead before the fourth vault finished, leaving the empty room for us to guess.


The first grave is the largest of all. The clay soldiers with different expressions stand in ranks inside, staring at me from the pit as if woken from a deep sleep. At the far side, a bronze chariot would have been fatigued with the journey from the Qin dynasty. Repairment to the broken warriors takes place on the land that the archeologists didn't excavate. According to our guide, archeologists have long to repair these warriors and renew them completely. The bricks in Grave One are all etched with the builder's names, written in a unique script. One of these stones can be worth six million yuan.


What is interesting in Grave Two is the two deep and long tunnels that tomb robbers dug ago. The tomb robber, unknowing the value of the broken pottery shards, dug on to find no gold.


The people of the Qin dynasty knew techniques in metal forging millennia ago. A bent bronze sword discovered there sprang straight suddenly just after its discovery; the bronze weapons found have chromium to keep them being rusty and fragile.


One of the earliest health checks was in the Qin dynasty. Soldiers wore armor made of Lantian jade and trained for some time. The jade would absorb the sweat on the soldier's back. If the jade felt watery and shone like polished metal, then the soldier was healthy.

可能人类历史上最早的体检设备也出自秦朝。据说当时的 秦兵穿着的盔甲中含有蓝田玉,这些玉石会吸收士兵训练时溢出的汗液,从而会改变玉石的状态。如果玉石水润有光泽,则表示士兵健康、强壮!

A bus ride later, the quiet beauty of the Huaqing Palace welcomed us into its history. The palace, built in the Tang dynasty, was a resort for the king when he had a trip to the outer parts of the city. Listen, the poem "Chang Hen Ge" written by Bai Juyi lingered around, as if telling us the love story of Tang Xuan Zong and Yang Gui Fei, who had enjoyed themselves here. Huaqing palace is history's scrapbook, where all the prints related to humanity stay permanent. Up the mountains, down the gentle hills, the old harmony reverberates inside. Across the rivers, amid the lakes, the tune of peace still sounds faintly in the distance.


The scene of Daming Palace that I've seen in the documentary reoccurred in my mind when I swung on the metro. The beginning of my last tour was Danfeng Gate which was the main gate of Daming Palace.


The rebuilt Danfeng Gate towers over the surrounding buildings symbolize how the phoenix is superior to other birds. Just looking at it reminded me of a phoenix, red as flame, flying off to the wilderness. Behind him, all the birds sounded a shrill, long call, wishing their king a good triumph.


Inside the recreated gate, the wreckage of Danfeng Gate consisted only of the door bases. The former glory had disappeared. Through the broken wood and stone structures, I could still sense energy pulsing, murmuring what had happened thousand years ago.


Right behind the Danfeng Gate, three palaces lie in a straight line. The Hanyuan Palace is the biggest of all. As the main palace in the Daming Palace complex, it stands at eighty meters high (the earth has been rising, so it wasn't eighty meters high), only the base of the pillars can still be seen. It is hard to imagine that there was a magnificent structure here fourteen centuries ago.


The Xuanzheng and Zichen Palaces are to the north of Hanyuan Palace. Xuanzheng Palace was the place where commandments were given. Zichen Palace was the emperor's personal section. To be called to meet the emperor in the Zichen Palace was a great glory.


There is a miniature model of the whole palace complex there. Though a miniature model, it still occupies an enormous mass of land. The Daming Palace has a mass of 4.5 Forbidden Cities and has been the vastest palace ever known on earth.


Human has created miracles and then destroyed them himself. How contradictory!Civilizations flourish and crumble in an endless pattern. Is maintaining peace that hard? Is war the best way to solve problems? Historic rolls beckon us to grope for a road in the darkness leading to civilization in the future.


Twinkling stars wink at me out of the window hole as if bidding farewell. With a monstrous bellow, the plane's powerful engines came to life. I feel my ears closing up as the aircraft spiraled into the sky. Lights spread across the broad region spark invitingly at me, welcoming me to a warm reunion.


回应13 收藏21 举报
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